November 27th 2012

Context

I am still increasing my work capacity.  Probably too rapidly.  I was all fidgety again last night due to overtraining.  I need to let off the gas a little, so that I can do more workouts per week.  I’ll be able to do more volume over time if I don’t hammer myself into the ground each time I visit the gym.  It’s so hard to do, letting off the gas.  I’m still working on increasing my backsquat. And focusing on stair climber and density bouldering to increase my work capacity.

Workout

  1. 15 mins high intensity stair climber.  Increasing my work duration, decreasing my rest duration.
  2. Backsquat – 5-1-3 with 45’s, 70’s, and 60’s.  The single 185 lb lift was the first time that I’ve ever sort-of-maxed with any lift.  I’m glad I asked for some spotters.  I almost failed to grind it out.  I had no idea how much harder an extra 20 lbs would be.
  3. 22 mins density bouldering (27 V3s).
  4. Hangboard pullups – 3-3-3 with 10 lbs.

I’m not sure why this workout wasted me so much.  Could it have been the big backsquat?  Maybe it was all the tofurkey 🙂

Nov 16th 2012

Context

I am finally getting excited about training again after a good sized mental break.  After reading Steve Bechtel’s latest couple of blog posts, I feel like increasing my work capacity.  I think it will be good off-season training, and allow me to play around a bit more with my workouts.  It’ll also help to distract myself from hangboard training.  I think it’s beating me up too much, and if I don’t switch gears, I’ll end up hurting myself.  I’ll keep up some hangboard stuff but switch up my hangboard sessions to reflect a more “Easy Strength” (Dan John) approach.  And I’m getting psyched about a new back squat goal (3x255lbs).  A lot to fit into one workout.  That’s probably why the idea of work capacity is exciting to me right now.  It will allow me to work multiple energy systems, varied intensities, and a variety of exercises.

Workout

  • 10 mins stairclimber intervals (mod to high intensity)
  • 20 mins density bouldering (18 V3’s)
  • 3×3 hangboard pullups, 10lbs, half-crimp, 5 min rests
  • 5-3-2 backsquats with 45’s, 50’s, and 60’s
  • 20 mins density bouldering (20 V3’s)
  • 10 mins stairclimber intervals (mod to high intensity)

That’s 60 mins of mod to high intensity training with two “Easy Strength” exercises in the middle.  Super fun and didn’t feel too worked afterwards.  We’ll see about tomorrow.

I’m excited to get back to some density bouldering (Steve Bechtel), my favorite type of workout this past year.

 

May 16 Workout

Context:  After feeling beat up after 3 aid pitches, I decided to add in some Metabolic Circuits to my plan (for 4 weeks, then re-evaluate).  This is non-aerobic, high intensity cardio.  I am targeting my weak ass and legs, to help me up the big wall (load carrying, hauling, and jugging).  I avoided any exercises that would work my main climbing muscles.  That way, I’m able to do these on my rest days from serious climbing training (spread the fatigue).

These are also great workouts for fat loss and general conditioning.

I should’ve warmed up, but I didn’t (besides some vacuuming).  I went straight into this:

2 Rounds of
30 sec Lateral Ski Jump
15 sec Rest
30 sec Explosive Step Up
60 sec Rest
30 sec Mountain Climber
15 sec Rest
30 sec Burpee
60 sec Rest

2 Rounds of
30 sec Walking Lunges
15 sec Rest
30 sec Alternating Lunge Jumps
90 sec Rest
30 sec Pushups
15 sec Rest
30 sec KB Swing
90 sec Rest

Less Gooey Protein Shake than yesterday.

 

May 15 Workout

Context: A day after Intensity Bouldering session  in the gym.  I wanted to do some easy strength training, hangboard and wrist rehab.  Decided to “warm-up” with a metabolic circuit to help improve my general conditioning, especially legs.  I got a bit beat up the weekend before after doing 3 pitches of aid climbing (I only lead one) with a 40 min(?) approach with a 50lb pack, and I realized that I need to add in more general fitness (and maybe drop some bouldering training) if I want to make it up a big wall.

Warmup – foam roll, glut activation

2 rounds metabolic circuit =
30sec KB swings
30sec rest
30sec step-ups with weight
60sec rest
30sec body weight jump squat
30sec rest
30sec mountain climbers
60sec rest

4 rounds of
TGU with 2 reps KB shoulder press from the TGU elbow position
30sec plank
30sec side bridge right
30sec side bridge left
30sec bird dog right
30sec bird dog left
8 ankles to bar
good rest

Wrist rehab – reverse wrist curls, pronators, supinators, eversion, inversion.

Hangboard 4 rounds of
5sec small crimp with 7lbs
30sec rest
5sec 3 finger open hand pocket with 7 lbs
30sec rest

Gooey protein shake.

Any questions?  Feel free to ask!