06/17/13 Hangboard Build

  • 3 x 20 KB swings (20 kg first round, 16+20 KG 2nd and 3rd round) Warmup
  • clean and front squat with double KB 16+20
    • 1-2-3-4-5 on the minute (PLE 6. Need more rest)
  • hangboard 1 with 17 lbs. Do 18 lbs next session, then 20.
  • 2 rounds of: single leg deadlift 16 Kg x 5/side, 10 inverted rows, 5/side upside down KB military press 18 lbs.
  • Redmond gym
    • V2 M
    • linked VO, V1, V2
    • V4
    • V4
    • V4
    • V5
    • V6
    • V6
    • V7 2 attempts no top

06/14/13 Hangboard Build

  • double swings warmup x 20 (16+20KB)
  • hangboard workout 1 with 15lbs
  • double KB clean + KB squat reps
    • 1-2-3-4-5 squats 16+20KG
  • 2rounds of: 5 single leg DL(16KG), 10x rows, 5 upside down KB press (18lb) each side

06/12/13 Start Hangboard Strength Build

  • Hangboard workout 1 with 13 lbs
  • Single KB clean(singles) & squat(rep ladder) with 20kg
    • 1-2-3-4-5 each side (15 total/side ). Rest as need.

This is the start of some finger strength building on my hangboard at home.  I use Steve Bechtel’s Hangoard Sequence 3 modified with 10sec holds / half crimp for 5 rounds, 8 sec / 2 fing (2nd team) pocket for 4 rounds, and 8 sec / full crimp for 4 rounds.  It takes about 20 minutes and does not burn me out; I’m building strength mostly, not endurance.  I progress by adding weight since I’m already using the hardest holds on the board (except for the pockets).  I do fairly long holds because my favorite climbing is trad, so I’m usually hanging on for longer (fussing with gear) than I would if I were redpointing something sporty.

I also started this build intending to get some squat strength.  You’ll see some ladders of KB squats early on.  But then I dropped this goal, because I was feeling too much fatigue  on my “rest” days and wasn’t feeling battle-ready for my hangboard sessions.

Goal is 30 lbs.  I’d like to do it in 2 blocks of 3-4 weeks, with some easy power-endurance between.  After that?  Maybe I’ll actually climb outside.



Making KB swings more of a priority for big wall conditioning, though I don’t want to overtrain like I did last time. Doing lots of lower intensity BP’s seems to be a good strategy to prepare for the “climbing” part of El Cap.  Mental training would be an even better strategy, but not as fun.  I really like the on-the-minute pyramid with the backsquat and plate pinches.


  • KB swing 6
    • 25*20kg
    • 25*20+16kg
    • 25*20kg
    • 25*20+16kg
    • Rest as needed
  • 2* warmup circuit 4
  • Warmup boulder problems up /down
    • 3*V3
    • 3*V4
    • 3*V5
  • 20 mins Density Bouldering 8
    • 9*V3 Ms
  • Back squats 60s and plate pinches 25s 5-8
    • On the 4min
    • 2-3-4-3-2



Still working on increasing work capacity for El Cap.  Swings are good for big wall hauling and conditioning.  I’m going to start doing these multiple times a week, working up my sets very slowly.  BP’s are for fun (that’s what it’s all about, right?!).  Back squat weight is increasing slowly, though this was an off day.  Plate pinching is for fun, but could help with big wall gripping.  I like the on-the-minute style workouts.  Very simple and challenging enough to be fun.


  • KB swing 5*20
    • 20kg*3
    • 20+16kg*2
  • 2* Warmup circuit 12-1-3 -12-10
  • Boulder problems up downs
    • 3*V3
    • 3*V4
    • 3*V5
    • 3*V6
    • 2*V7 attempts
  • Back squats 60s & plate pinching 25s
    • On the 4min
    • 2 – 3 – 4

Workout 3/15/13


Coming back after some over-training, I’m keeping my PLE (Perceived Level of Exertion) at six-or-lower for most movements.  Still training for El Capitan in June, so I’m working on increasing my work capacity, without over-training.  Such a fine line…

  • 425 ft of jugging
  • 2* warmup circuit
    • 12 rows
    • 1 bear crawl
    • 3 inch worm
    • 12 rows
  • Warmup boulder problems
    • 3*V2 up down
    • 7*V3 up down
  • Density Bouldering
    • 20 mins 8*V3 Ms
  • Back squats 55s & pinch swings 45
    • On the 4min 3-4-5-4-3
  • Pinch plate lifts 25lb, 2-3
  • 20 min walk 6 lbs


Bothell Chiropractic  |  Massage Lynnwood

Workout Jan 28 2013


I’m recovering from a minor sinus infection that really zapped my energy, so I needed to hold myself back and not overdo it today.  I’m very, very eager to keep increasing my work capacity.  I have a good base of capacity now, and I want to heap loads of work on top of that.  Oh well,  kept it simple, upping my reps only slightly and kept the overall work very low.  Normally, I would have rested 20 mins then bounced between the hangboard and single leg squats.  Maybe in a couple days I’ll be up to it.


3 rounds (rest :30 & :60):
A1: Modified side bridge x 40sec
A2: Ankles to Bar x 12

4 rounds (rest :30 & :60):
B1: Turkish Get Up 16kg
B2: KB Swing, doubles with 18lb &16kg x 20

3 rounds (rest :30 & :60):
C1: TGU press (elbow) 16kg
C2: Inverted Rows (fat grip) x12


  1. I could have done more rounds if I upped the long rest in the 2nd and 3rd groups to 90 seconds.  That would have allowed me to do more work.
  2. The TGU press is awesome.  It forces me to work on scapula stabilization, thoraco-pelvic stabilization, and even some hip centration.  It’s more than just a press exercise.
  3. If you haven’t tried fat grip rows, you’re missing out.  All you need is some PVC pipe and some cord or webbing.