05/12/14 Monday

At Home

3 rounds with 20, 24, and 32kg

  • 8 goblet squats
  • 10/10 inverted rows
  • 10/10 OH swings

At Redmond gym

Modified Density

V2, V2, V3

This is getting tough already.  I had 3 days off since my last session, and this was still too hard to finish.  On some reps, I barely get any rest before having to start the next one.  I had to stop on problem 7/9 on the second round.  I was thinking about changing up the rest structure, doing a set 1 minute rest after completing each M, but I kind of like it how it is, with the clock pushing you.  Not sure how the rest of the sessions will go.  If I keep failing to finish, then I will either do a set rest amount, or just do a problem every 3 minutes (instead of every 2 mins).

I don’t feel too wasted today, the day after.


Did my second session of density bouldering M’s.  It felt good, and easy.  It’s supposed to be a medium-hard day.  I could have paced myself better.

Core warmup followed by

M’s of V1,V2,V2 (3 rounds in 20 mins)

Rest 20

M’s of V1,V2,V2 (3 rounds in 20 mins)

In the first 20 mins I had about 6.5 mins left on the clock after I finished my 3rd round.  I felt like I should have kept going, but I’m going to try to stick to the plan.  Maybe I should do a problem every 2 mins instead of doing rest as needed.  Yes, I think that would work better.

05/02/14 Friday

Going to start logging my sessions again, after taking a break from it. Hopefully I’ll see some progress or be motivated by it in some way.

I’ve been working on building up to the 32kg kettlebell, so that’s taken a lot of my training energy.  Climbing has been on hold for 2 weeks.  I’m feeling very low endurance, so I’m going to do a bout of density bouldering to build some of that back up.  It’s hard for me to let it all go, and just keep pushing strength and power.  A block of power will be up next, after about 3 or 4 weeks of density.

Warmup @ home

  • Goblet squat x 8, Inverted rows 2 in x 10, OH swings 10/10
  • With 20kg, 24kg, 32kg = 3 rounds
  • rest as needed
@ Redmond VW
  • Density
  • 20 mins work, 20 mins rest, 20 mins work
  • M ladders on V1, V2, V3
  • 3 ladders each work period (9 total M’s)

The M’s (up-down-up-down) feel like a good middle endurance ground for me (too long for bouldering, too short for trad).  Most of my goals this year are bouldering related, but I’m also looking forward to some trad at Index this year, so I’m not quite willing to go all-in with the bouldering training.


Inspired by my trainer to write up more of my workouts, which I will probably rename “training sessions”.

Today was a park bench day

My training partner is having some low back troubles, so I’ve decided to take a break from climbing training for a bit, until he’s ready to get back to work.  It feels kind of nice to have a forced break from the gym, because my tendency is to keep pushing until I’m housed.

My park bench workout, inspired by my trainer and my climbing partner:

You are nothing without your back – 4×3 of low back pre-hab, correctives, endurance, etc. = 12 different exercises that focus on front, sides, and back of core (always breathing and activating core).  All to fatigue, rest as needed.

Presses from 1/4 getup 12 kg – 8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1 on right, 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 on left (36 total reps).  Rest as needed.  I did opposite ladders just to see the different challenge. It felt harder on the last set on the left, but overall easier going from few to many.  The 3rd and 4th set on the right felt difficult.  I think I would choose a shorter ladder next time, going from 1 rep to 5 reps, and do that twice (30 total reps).

Double KB squats – 5 min rests between: 2×5 16+20kg, 2×3 20+24kg.


07/31/13 Hangboard Build

Fingers have never felt more confident on the hangboard.  I’m up to 20% of bodyweight.  Maybe I’ll shoot for 33 lbs (25% of BW).

  • warmup 5 rounds double KB swings 16+20 kg on the 2 min
  • hangboard 1 w 26 lbs
  • TGU press, inverted rows, KB clean & squat
    • 1st round – 3 reps: 16 kg press, one arm assisted rows, double KB c&s 16+20 kg
    • 2nd round – 8 reps 18 lb press, 8 reps inv rows, 4 reps/side single KB c&s w 16 kg
    • 3rd round – 5 reps: 16 kg press, one arm assisted rows, double KB c&s 16+20 kg

07/29/13 Hangboard Build

  • warmup 5 rounds double KB swings w 16+20 kg
    • on the 2 min
  • hangboard 1 w 25 lbs  (try 26 next)
  • 16 kg TGU press, one arm assisted invert rows, double KB clean & squat w 16+20 kg
    • 2-3-5
    • rest as needed

07/26/13 Hangboard Build

  • warmup 5 rounds of double KB swings 16+20 kg on the 2 min
  • hangboard 1 w 23 lbs
  • 16 kgTGU press + one arm assisted inverted rows
    • 2-3-3-2
    • on the 4 min
  • double KB clean and squat w 16+20 kg
    • 1-2-3-4-5
    • rest as needed

07/24/13 Hangboard Build

  • warmup
    • 5 rounds double KB swings w 16+20 kg.
    • 20 swings on the 2 min
  • Hangboard 1 20 lbs (try 22 lbs next)
  • double KB clean and squat 16+20 kg.
    • 1-2-3-4-5 rest as needed.
  • TGU press 16 kg + assisted one arm invert rows
    • 1-2-3-4 rest as needed

07/22/13 Hangboard Build

After about a 4 week break from the hangboard, I’m back at it.   I started at 75% of my previous max, because I didn’t do a lot of climbing during my break, and because I just wasn’t feeling that strong.  I was also planning on building my swings during this phase, but I didn’t realize how much that would tax my grips, so I dropped that idea after this 1st workout.  I’ll just be focusing on building my hangboard strength over the next 9-12 workouts (3-4 weeks).  Goal is still 30 lbs by the end.

  • 20 swings on the 2 mins
    • 10 rounds
    • doubles 16+20 kg
  • Hangboard 1 – 18lbs  (do 20 lbs next)
  • TGU press from elbow and hand 18 lbs
    • 2 rounds
    • 8 (each) – 6 (each)  = 28 total reps
  • 2 rounds inverted rows x 5
  • 2 x 6 KB squat singles 16 kg

06/28/13 Hangboard Build

  • easy finger warmup
    • heavy rolls with 20kg KB
    • progressive half crimp and full crimp 8-10 sec holds
  • hangboard 1 with 24 lbs. ple6
  • 1 easy set of rows, pushups, one leg DL, swings, single KB clean/squat, upside-down KB press, and arm bars