One of the biggest mistakes that I made when I first started training, was thinking that the pro climbers had all the answers. I even had this idea of trying to interview all the top professional climbers to gain some insight into how to train better.
Now I realize how disastrous that would have been. The first reason is that I don’t have the genetics, youth, and time that most pro climbers have. Their training plans (if they even had one) would fail on me, because my body and lifestyle cannot support them. Plans need to fit the individual climbers needs.
The second reason is that most pro climbers don’t train that smart. Some do, I’m sure, but most don’t, because they don’t have to. They are athletes, not coaches. As my mentor Steve Bechtel puts it, “do you think Mike Tyson would make a good boxing coach?”. I believe that a lot of them just “climb more” and throw in some random hangboard or campus board exercises into their workouts. They haven’t studied exercise physiology or strength and conditioning, and they haven’t written training programs for the average climber.
So quit thinking that they have the answers. And quit thinking that if you train like them, then you’ll climb like them. Find your own path and prove to yourself that it works. Then obsessively refine it until you are the best climbing athlete you can be.
P.S. If you ARE one of those young, genetic anomalies and you need some help, then send me and email. I want to train you!