Excellent Review of Hangboarding Literature

I was going to write a post about isometrics, but then I found this:


Steve’s hangboarding recommendations based on his review:

  • Single hangs of 9 – 12 seconds with a 2 – 3 minute rest in between sets.
  • Number of sets per grip  3 – 9 sets.
  • Total amount of time hanging should be between 40 and 120 seconds. 
  • Training weight is determined by total weight that can be hung from the grip being trained for 13 seconds.

I would add the idea that training full crimps (minimally) every hangboard session might be good practice.  I do 3 reps of 10 secs on very small edges, no added weight.  I feel like it’s a good “reminder” for my fingers.



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