Bang for Your Buck Weight Training

Remember the 80/20 rule.  80% of your training time (aka “almost all of it”) should be spent on climbing practice and maybe climbing specific strength training (depending on your training age). Only 20%  of your training time (aka “not very much”) should be spent with a good general weight program.

That means if you have 8 hours a week to train, you should only be under the iron for about 1.5 hours, maybe even less.  That’s only 3 weight sessions if you’re doing 1/2 hour sessions.  BETTER KEEP IT SIMPLE AND EFFICIENT!

Here’s a good article by Dan John that lists a few of his” Bang for the Buck” exercises for each tool (kettlebell, barbell, etc.)

The article is a great read.  Dan gives away many of his secrets for free, but I’d encourage you to buy his book, Easy Strength.  Why would you want to work harder than you have to?  Anyways, here’s the snippet for you lazies out there:

For the kettlebell, it’s the swing, the goblet squat, and the get-up. The TRX and various rings give us the horizontal pull, the one-arm pull, and the various T, Y and I’s for the upper back. For the Mini-Band, those five-dollar small rubber wraps, the Lateral Walk will teach you more about your butt than an anatomy class. Simply, wrap the band around both of your socks and walk sideways (laterally) like a shuffle step in basketball. Too easy? Just keep going…

For the barbell, it’s the deadlift and the press (all varieties). Mastery of this simple list will give any athlete all they need from the weightroom and any person the body of their dreams. Mastery walks hand in hand with simplicity.


I don’t agree with all of his recommendations, but you get the point.  Here it is in case you don’t get the point:  You don’t have much time so make it count.

Also, always think about how your weight training crosses over to your climbing.  If there are two great squat movements, but one of them is more helpful for climbing, ditch the less specific one immediately, no matter how fun it is.  Save your fun for climbing.  Find other ways to have fun in the weight room.

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